Howtoo Logo
2014 Ford Escape
2013 - 2016 Ford Escape

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff
How to Replace Rear Brakes 2013-2019 Ford Escape

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2013-2019 Ford Escape

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014 Ford Escape

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, piston wind-back tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014 Ford Escape

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, piston wind-back tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This job replaces the rear brake pads on your Escape. The rear calipers must be safely moved out of the way, the old pads removed, and the caliper piston compressed before installing new pads.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Escape with jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust and rust can irritate your eyes and skin.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a rear caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Do one side at a time so the other side can be used as a reference.
  • ⚠️ Keep brake grease off the pad friction material and rotor surface.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake pad replacement.
  • ⚠️ Your Escape uses a manual parking brake system, not an electronic parking brake, so no scan-tool EPB retraction is required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm open-end wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • Rear disc brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Flat-head screwdriver
  • Small wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Escape on level ground.
  • Place the transmission in Park.
  • Do not set the parking brake, because the rear calipers need to move freely.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of and behind the front wheels.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool so it does not overflow when the pistons are pushed back.
  • A wind-back tool turns and pushes the rear caliper piston inward at the same time. Rear calipers with parking brake mechanisms usually need this tool.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about 1/2 turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
  • Loosen only. Do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear of the Escape

  • Use the floor jack at the rear jacking point to lift the rear of your Escape.
  • Place jack stands under the approved rear support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to make sure it is stable before working near the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper Lower and Upper Slide Pin Bolts

  • Look at the back of the rear brake caliper. The caliper is the clamp-shaped part over the brake rotor.
  • Use the 15mm open-end wrench to hold the slide pin from turning.
  • Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Set the bolts aside in a clean spot.

Step 5: Lift Off and Support the Caliper

  • Use the flat-head screwdriver gently between the caliper and outer pad if the caliper is tight.
  • Lift the caliper off the pads and rotor by hand.
  • Hang the caliper from the suspension using the brake caliper hanger hook.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use the flat-head screwdriver to carefully remove the old stainless pad clips from the bracket.
  • Use the small wire brush to clean rust and debris from the pad clip contact areas.
  • Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the bracket contact points.

Step 7: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

  • Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood before compressing the piston.
  • Use the rear disc brake caliper piston wind-back tool to turn and push the caliper piston fully inward.
  • On this rear caliper design, the piston must be rotated while being pushed in.
  • Stop if the piston feels stuck or cocks sideways. Reposition the tool and try again gently.
  • Slow pressure protects the caliper seal.

Step 8: Install the New Pad Hardware

  • Install the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake lubricant to the metal contact points where the pad ears slide in the clips.
  • Do not put grease on the rotor or on the pad friction surface.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

  • Slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the pads move smoothly in the clips without binding.
  • If a pad is tight, remove it and clean the bracket again with the small wire brush.

Step 10: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • If it does not fit, use the rear disc brake caliper piston wind-back tool to push the piston in a little farther.
  • Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 15mm open-end wrench to hold the slide pin.
  • Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the slide pin bolts.
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 10 on the other rear wheel.
  • Use the same 13mm socket, 15mm open-end wrench, flat-head screwdriver, small wire brush, and rear disc brake caliper piston wind-back tool.
  • Replace rear brake pads in pairs, never on only one side.

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Place each rear wheel back on the hub by hand.
  • Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands.
  • Lower your Escape fully to the ground using the floor jack.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly 5-10 times.
  • The pedal may go low at first. It should become firm after a few pumps.
  • Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

✅ After Repair

  • Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
  • Start your Escape and press the brake pedal again. Confirm it feels firm.
  • Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
  • Perform a gentle bedding-in process: make 8-10 smooth stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
  • Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless it is an emergency.
  • Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive using the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
2014 Ford Escape
Menu
Videos
Earn